The Second 1000 kms

The 2nd thousand Kms took us just over 4weeks, from Boston to Birmingham, Alabama.We ferried across to Cape Cod, took a bus out of New York to Washington, and an overnight train from Charlottsville to Birmingham. Amazing friendly hosts made it possible for us to stay handy to all that the cities had to offer, most especially the art museums.
Having biked this way and that through Manhattan I find myself saying, we can do anything. It was only scary for a while. Washington seemed like a little village by comparison, and stuffed full of wonderful treasures in the Smithsonian museums. The Canal path out of Washington was as gentle as the Skyline/ Blue Mountain road was tough going. With a forecast for considerable rain we jumped on the train, to be met in sunny Alabama by Serena and Jim, and whisked away to their lovely home.
Although we always knew we would not ride the whole way from Montreal to New Orleans I think we both secretly hoped we might. Once we acknowledged this we settled down for a more relaxing....

Third thousand Kms...
We pottered south from Birmingham, through rough hunting country, towns remembered for Civil Rights activism, past (and sometimes camping behind)every sort of church and with delightful weather. The bugs were bigger, fire ants and itchy things. We saw a man finishing off a decent sized rattle snake, and the news told us that bears were invading from the north and swimming the Mississippi. Once at the coast we turned right, for New Orleans and were over whelmed by the ongoing catastrophe of hurricane Katrina. Wrecked coastline, homes, businesses and communities. I think everyone we spoke to mentioned Katrina within the first minute of conversation. The oil spill is like another knock back, to an already battered community We helped out at a Habitat for Humanity site for 4 days, good fun and a well run project. New Orleans was easy going and a fun visit, food, music and museums. It was so nice to sit still. at last, on the 48 hour train ride to LA. We had a minute sleeping cupboard, nice food and endless amazing views of the desert,(never let me try to ride anywhere near there please)
We planned this trip that we would meet people, and be able to talk with them. We chose the East side of USA to see historic places,small towns as well as cities and the coast, with the expectation of varied cultures,climates and geography. Any stereotypical views we might have harbored about America and Americans have been well and truly smashed. We have loved it all,expectations surpassed and we are deeply grateful to all those generous folk who made it SO special.

Possum in the Headlights – an Alabama story.

“Buddy” did'nt know we were camping on his property until he looked out the window of his house and saw strange lights flickering in his paddock, half a mile away. We had spoken to a chap operating a digger on Buddie's property and he said he thought it would be ok, as long as we “took out our trash”.
“Get out around the back of the hill near those trees where the crazies won't see you” was his advice as I thanked him and headed back to my bike.
We were sitting finishing our meal when headlight beams sliced through the darkness around the side of the low hill which shielded us from the road. Like a possum caught in the headlights, I stood and began walking towards the vehicle which came to a stop about 20 paces from where we'd been sitting. Reflected in the dashboard lights I could make out a man in his mid to late forties, eyes a bid bleary looking as if he'd had a few drinks, I could not see past him to ascertain if he had a gun on the seat!
“We're cycle tourists from New Zealand. Do you own this land” I asked
“Yes Sirr“
“We spoke to the bloke on the digger and he said he thought it would be ok to camp here, is it OK?”
“Yes Sirr, thats fine. Where yaaal from ?”
“We started in Montreal and we're headed for New Orleans”
“Montreal Canada?” incredulously
“Yeah, 8 weeks ago”
“ Yew got ever thin yew want there?”
“Yes thanks, we carry everthing we need, are very careful campers and will leave only footprints”
“Ok Sirr, then yew have a good night”
Then “ Yew say yure frome Ontario ?”
“No, New Zealand”
He turned the ute and bumped back around the track out of the paddock.

We finished our tea, crawled into out tent, read for awhile and were just dozing off to sleep when a glow from vehicle lights lit up the inside of the tent.
Dressed in my cycle touring pyjamas, I was not really in a state to welcome visitors, so I unzipped the tent fly and stuck my head out, the ute was on the far side of the tent.
“Hope ahm not disturbin ya'll, ma wife sent some sausages and pork ribs down for yew” It was our landlord back again.
“Thanks very much that's very kind “ The ute door opened and he made his way around to my side of the tent and handed me an alfoil tray, containing the barbequed food, then hurriedly made his way back to the ute.
“They's a Homecomin Dance on back at the school, I just come on down to see things are all right, hope I'm not disturbin y' all”
“No, that's fine, hey these sausages are really good” They were spicy hot and salty, I passed one into Val – she took a bite and almost caught fire, too hot for her.
“Ah got some bread and mustard here if ya want”
“No, wer're okay, if fact we've not long finished our tea, but I'll just have to have another one of these sausages and the rest will be good tomorrow for lunch”
A long pause then “Well if ya'll right here I'll be goin now, Ya'll have a good night'
“I'm sure we will thanks, night”
The ute rolled off, following the swathe cut by its headlights, but only travelled 20 metres when the tail lights blazed and it backed up to the tent once more.
'I hope ahm not disturbin y'all again, but where 'r yew frome”
I poked my head our again
“No, you're not disturbing us, We're from New Zealand”
“I used ter work urp n Quebec, got a good buddy still up there”
Öh yeah, what sort of work was that”
“Forestry, it's sall forestry round here”
“Are you still in forestry”
“Yeah, I run a logging machine”
Here was my chance to show off my logging knowledge
“Do you operate a feller/buncher”
“Yessir, I do”
“It's all pretty flat land round here I guess
““Yessir, not too hilly, not like Canada. I went to a logging conference up there a year or two ago, they sure know their logging up there”
The conversation went on like this for a while, then went he was quiet and I could see a blue light coming from his cell phone as he opened it and began dialling. Shortly a canned voice drifted over to me, saying that so and so could not take the call now but call back later.
We fancy buddy wanted to check with his mate in Quebec as just where in Canada was this place called New Zealand.

 

Supermarket missions

Don has had it hard with out his Vegmite, and my supply of Peppermint tea was seriously interrupted.

 

Why no tandem ???
Don races down hills as fast as poss, while I, having struggled to the top, like to savour the down hill experience.

 

Sausage buddy
WE camped in a fairly desolate field, having been told the owwer probably would not mind. While eating dinner a huge Ute bounded across through the darkness. 'Buddy 'leaned out of the window and said its all fine. stay as long as you like.
When well asleep,about 10 30, he returned to say it was sad we missed the Homecoming game the previous night. It was also sad we missed the dance H tonight, but..oh yes stay as long as you like... He gave us a box of very spicy snd rather burned sausages. Don popped out of the tent, having pulled on some pants and tried to make conversation about the logging industry and local issues. 'Buddy'said again we could stay as long as we liked, and headed off. As we were 3 days between shops the sausages were very welcome.

 

A Bike for Serena
Jim and Serena were great hosts in Birmingham. Jim is keen to cycle tour, but Serena prefers to make glorious patchwork quilts. This may just solve the problem